One of the best things about living in Taiwan is surfing. I grew up around the beach, and the beach was open to me whenever I needed to go for a surf. I have learned a lot of things from surfing, so here are five things I learned from surfing that have kept me positive and helped me not give up.
1. Keep Duck Diving
Some people in your life are going to drag you down. It’s a given. Just like surfing, you will get pounded by waves when you’re caught inside, whether you like it or not. Getting caught inside is probably the worst feeling in the world. You just fell off your board and waves are crashing on your head while you’re out of breath. When you’re caught inside you can turn around and go back to shore or keep duck diving and get back in the line up. People and experiences will cause you to feel down, angry, or even hopeless. You can choose to keep plowing through life or give up. The sooner you’re back in the line up, the sooner you are back in the game. I recommend the duck diving option. It’s not until you keep duck diving that you get to tell your friends about that epic wipe out you just had.
2. Don’t Bail, CHARGE!
You will face challenges that seem impossible. Whether it’s choosing a college, finding a part time job, or telling someone you like him. It will be scary, and you will feel like avoiding these challenges. Imagine you’re in the line up and you see the set waves. You start paddling, and you’re unsure of yourself. They seem scary, steep, and impossible. You have two options: you can choose to bail or you can CHARGE! Stepping out of your comfort zone and doing that thing you always wanted to do will be the best decision you ever made. One of the best waves I ever caught was by charging. It was the scariest wave, but the best ride.
3. Wipe Outs are Good
Wipe outs are inevitable in surfing. You’re going to catch a wave thinking you got this, and then the next second you’re tumbling in white wash. Wipe outs are painful and embarrassing, but in the end wipe outs make you a better surfer. In life people make mistakes. We are able to learn a lot from our mistakes. Don’t let mistakes drag you down make them into something that motivate you. Just get back on your board and keep surfing.
4. Wait for the Ground Swell
Wind swells form from local winds and usually don’t produce good quality waves for surfing. Ground swells, on the other hand, are waves that form thousands of miles away from the coastline. Although it may take a long time, when ground swells arrive your surf spot, they will be the most excellent waves you could imagine. I hate going shopping, so I shop really fast. Because of being impatient, I end up with clothes that I don’t really like, and I wish I had spent more time picking stuff out. So, don’t be impatient in life and settle for choppy wind swell waves. Be patient and wait for the good quality ground swell waves. It may take up more of your time, but you will enjoy more of what you waited for.
5. Cherish the Barrels
If you asked a surfer what the best part of surfing was they would tell you it was getting barreled. Getting barreled is difficult in surfing, and if you’re lucky enough to get into a barrel, it only lasts for a few seconds. When you look at your life and think “it doesn’t get any better than this,” you are very lucky. Cherish that moment because it may only exist for a little while and not everyone gets to that point in life. Do your best to remember every part of it and know that it happens rarely.
You may think that you can apply your own experiences to surfing or you may think surfing isn’t your thing. You can apply your own experiences to another sport. There are only five tips in this article; there is a lot more for you to discover. So, keep an open mind. Maybe you’ll find your own five that keep you moving!
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